WILD THAR

Continuing my voyage of macro photography I embarked on yet another tour with WILDARK to explore the dunes and herpetological wonders of Thar desert in Rajasthan. Amidst its arid expanse, an array of reptilian life thrives in its unique ecosystem. From snakes and geckos to scorpions, each creature blends into the sandy browns of its surroundings.

My journey started with an overnight train from Gurgaon to Jodhpur and from there a 6 hours cab ride to a village called Khuri, our final destination.

Arriving just in time for a sumptuous lunch; I connected with fellow participants around the dining table, coming from different parts of the country.

Afterwards we had an orientation session by our tour leader Mr. Vipul Ramanuj. He explained the field protocols and what to expect – and not to expect.

After the evening tea, our first warm up session kicked off in the dunes.

In no time we had our first sighting of specie I had never even heard before. To the untrained eye, with its remarkable camouflage, it may seem like some faint markings on the sand. Laungewala toad headed agama – what a fascinating name! It’s a type of lizard which is endemic to Thar desert. These agamas are named after Laungewala, a border village famous for a historic battle during the India-Pakistan war of 1971.

Laungewala toad headed agama – little brave heart with astonishing speed.

As the setting sun bathed the dunes in warm and soft light, we all made our long way back, crossing the terrain with a mixture of determination and fatigue. Going up and down in the dunes made us to stumble and regain our footing repeatedly, a test of physical stamina.

Reaching back we had hearty dinner of signature dishes of Rajasthan, dal-baati-choorma, much needed to replenish our energy .

Now let me share a little about the remarkable geological history of the Thar Desert. Palaeontologists have found 47 million-year-old marine fossils in the deserts of Rajasthan; experts said that the area was under the sea in pre-historic times. These ancient fossils provide a glimpse into the distant past.

Imprint of *Ammonite Fossil* on the flooring stone of our hotel.

Another specie we spotted on a rock with traces of marine fossil was Keeled rock gecko. It’s a small, nocturnal lizard with rows of prominent keeled scales.

As we all continued to search, one of the participant, Zhayynn James, spotted the star specie of the tour—the Persian Gecko. It is extremely difficult to sight this smallest specie of gecko; an adult grows to maximum size of one inch in length. Our tour mentor, told us the biggest threat faced by this little gecko is mining for minerals.

*Persian Gecko,* crevice-dwelling lizard.

The night continued to unfold with sighting of non-venomous, very docile Red Sand Boa. It is nocturnal and burrowing specie. This harmless snake is threatened by illegal wildlife trade and is legally protected under Wildlife (Protection) Act, 1972: Schedule IV.

Red Sand Boa – victim of exotic pet trade, cultural superstitions, agriculture expansion.

Our thrilling night session eventually came to a close around midnight with a memory card full of photographs of various species that called this arid expanse their home. Despite the fatigue and sand that clung everywhere from clothes to camera, I couldn’t wait to return to the field next day.

I woke up feeling rejuvenated and ready for another day in the desert. The weather seemed promising as we set off for a small morning session after breakfast.

We reached dunes at around 9.30, amid its tranquility, our group didn’t take long to spot very dainty looking lizard – Indian fringed toed-lizard.

Active during the daylight hours, it is characterised by its distinctive fringed toes that aid in movement on shifting desert sands.

We all were beaming from ear to ear after clicking plenty of good shots of this exquisite beauty.

We returned to our base well in time for lunch. As we gathered, we also discussed the photographs we had taken and learnt the nuances of visual storytelling. Table was equally buzzing with the inspiring stories of conservation to thought-provoking impact of human actions on environment. The afternoon was incredibly enriching. After rest of few hours, we headed out again for an extended session that continued well past midnight, in between we briefly returned for dinner.

It took whole one day before we got the chance to photograph the protagonist of Thar desert – Sochurek’s Saw-scaled viper. It’s a fascinating and venomous snake species. Despite its small size, it is considered one of the most medically significant venomous snakes. What sets Sochurek’s Saw-scaled viper apart is its characteristic behavior when threatened. When disturbed, this snake rubs its scales together, producing a distinctive rasping or hissing sound. This auditory warning serves as a deterrent to potential threats.

Eager to explore, we unearthed some more gems of deserts, to name few –

Sand fish, a member of the skink family, that is, it is between snake and lizard. It’s shifting pattern was everywhere on the sand but not an easy task to sight them.

Glossy bellied racer, is a sleek and agile snake and can move with astonishing speed when threatened.

I also tried some creative lighting and composition on Sindh Sand Gecko .

Despite its inconspicuous appearance, the Sindh sand gecko plays a vital role in controlling insect populations, thus creating a balance in desert food web.

Red-spotted royal snake – is very regal looking non-venomous snake. They are known for their secretive and elusive behaviour, often seeking refuge in burrows or rock crevices during the day and emerging to hunt at night.

But personally for me Dung Beetle stole the show that evening. With unwavering determination, it was rolling and guiding the ball of dung many times its size with a series of acrobatic stunts. This fascinating behaviour play a key part in soil health.

As the tour drew to close, a few lasting impressions were etched into my memory.

During my journey through the Thar, I was disheartened to see numerous roadkills left behind by the speeding vehicles. However Vipul shared a thoughtful tip, he emphasized the importance of picking up roadkill and placing it on the side of the road. This way other animals can feed on the remains without becoming the victim of same fate.

My narrative would be incomplete without the mention of Ashraf, an 11-12 years old boy whose innocence and simplicity won my heart. Under the watchful guidance of Vipul, he accompanied us on all the evening sessions, diligently honing his skills as a spotter. His company was pure joy and as we bid farewell, I pray for his bright future and boundless opportunities.