Agumbe – The Emerald Forest

Nothing can define Agumbe Rain forest better than these lines:  

”Like the allure of the deep forest, its beauty draws you in, but the shadows and unknown paths keep you on edge.”

Agumbe has a charm all its own.

The Pit vipers, in their patient and casual way, are hanging around camouflaged not just among the branches but also in unexpected spots like ceiling, quietly observing the world.

The Travancore wolf snake, an urban snake, is more at ease inside the room than in the wild. Unfazed by the commotion of being spotted, it remained silently coiled in the corner of the room.

The Green Vine Snake, with its delicate appearance, is a master of camouflage. Even when standing right in front of it, it can be difficult to spot. This beautiful and my favourite resident is a tree dweller and resembles a vine or leaf. 

Agumbe “The Jewel of the Western Ghats” is also famously known as the “King Cobra capital” of India. It is one of the wettest places in India and I had the privilege to visit this place twice during the monsoon season. On both visits, I stayed in Agumbe research station, which is situated in the heart of the forest and from every measure is a true wilderness.

Agumbe is enchanting during the monsoon, but my favourite time is when the rain stops briefly, and the forest is enveloped in a thick mist. The blur and softness create a very mysterious and dreamy haze and making it feel as if time has come to a standstill.

Giant wood spiders meticulously woven web quietly merging in misty weather, offering countless photography opportunities.

Agumbe’s unparalleled beauty is dominated by tall, majestic trees with mushrooms sprouting here and there. Dancing light of sporulating bracket mushrooms gives a true wonderland feel. The dense undergrowth of ferns, mosses, and orchids adds to the natural charm.

Agumbe also has a unique natural habitat — the Myristica swamp, which is dominated by nutmeg trees. (I have written an entire blog about this endangered ecosystem, please do read if it piques your interest).

I won’t delve into the details here but I must mention that it is one the most divine place to be and I felt profound sense of oneness with nature sitting under their canopy.

 

The whole place is teeming with wildlife often hidden in plain sight. 

Pit vipers position themselves motionless at strategic spot sometimes for weeks, patiently wait for prey to come to them.

While walking those slushy paths I would often find myself lost in thoughts, only to be jolted back to reality by some sighting, which was rarely to my own credit :)).

At night, the rainforest can feel unsettling and quite eerie. Amidst the heavy rain, the faint rustling and brushing of trees can be startling. 

But this is also a time of heightened activity. It comes alive with chorus of frogs and high pitched calls of cicadas. Witnessing cicadas molt and emerge into their short yet purposeful lives is a truly surreal experience.

Occasional glimpse of nocturnal mammals adds to the thrill. My “aha” moment came when we spotted the strictly nocturnal Slender Loris. As we strained our eyes in the direction of a high-pitched sound coming from the treetops, and aimed our torchlight in that direction. To my sheer delight, a pair of eyes gleamed back at us, and we caught a faint glimpse of the Loris’s body as it moved.

As darkness falls, the forest transforms into a symphony of croaks and calls from male frogs seeking mates. Nighttime provides them with protection from predators, allowing them to hunt, feed, call for mates, and establish territories with relative safety. What a magical time to be alive!

Having said that, the incessant rain makes even a short herping session feel like a Herculean task. Armed with torches, raincoats, leech socks, gumboots, and of course, an umbrella (without fail), we step out carefully protecting our gears from the ever-present dampness and moisture.

However the rewards we get in return makes every effort worthwhile.

I have a strong feeling that this blog will continue to evolve and be updated year after year. No number of visits would be enough to capture Agumbe’s enigma, my two can only give you a peek into this extraordinary world. 

Until then, hum in its mist and dance in its rain.